Route : Kuantan(0km) – Cukai(67km) – Rantau Abang (154.9km)
Distance covered: 154.9km
Total Distance : 391.62km
Time start: 5.00am
Time of arrival: 4.45pm
Expenditure:
Breakfast-RM$2.80
Drinks-RM$3.00
Light Lunch-RM$4.00
Dinner-RM$7.80
Snacks-RM$5.50
Mosquito coils-RM$2.50
Chalet-RM$35.00
TOTAL : M$60.60
Great rest and after a nice early bath (to wash the smell from my head) I was all eagered to proceed. 5am sharp I was pushing my bicycle passed the sleeping men on the front desk. Didn’t have the heart to wake him up so I just placed the room key on the counter and rode off. No traffic. That’s what I like the most when start early. Many road signs pointing towards Terengganu and within an hour I was out of town.
My plan was to cover at least 30-40km before stopping for breakfast. However, I seem to run out of stamina (feeling fatigue) after 15km. Maybe I push myself a bit too hard yesterday. Should I stop? But the sky was dark and I’m supposed to stop at least when the sun rise. If I stopped, I would miss my morning sunrise along the way. I was undecided whether to stop. Finally stopping would be a better option, I felt rather disappoint for such a short ride. Stalls beginning to open, as I rode in and stop at one of the Kedia Makan (Food stall). The fresh ‘roti canai’ aroma coming over from the cast iron pan was indeed a welcoming to my arrival. “Roti canai dengan-(with) telor-(egg) dan tea tarik-(Pull Tea) kurang manis-(less sugar)” my usual order. (Total RM$2.80). ‘Tea Tarik’ – or ‘Pull Tea’- literally a direct English translation. Is a way our local prepared the tea by pouring/transferring the tea drink from one metal container to another a few times before it’s served to you in a mug/glass. This process will make the tea much tastier. The way of doing it required some skills and style. It’s a culinary art. It’s indeed interesting to see them demonstrating and on many occasions National level ‘Tea Tarik’ competition are held here.
Stopping for breakfast early was a good choice. Feeling better and stronger after 30 minutes, I hopped onto my saddle and hit the paddle again. Consoling myself (so as to not feeling guilty) it’s a tour and not a race. My early research on the road had indicated, this would be a longest road before my next stop for the day. Accommodation in Paka and Dungun town were either full or too expensive. Plan ‘A’ was to pass Dungun, go as far as I possibly can before dark and look for a cheap place to stay. Plan ‘B’ (should plan ‘A’ fail) was to find a place to camp for a night. Had never camp in any of my tour so should be fun. I came prepared with a new Coleman two-men tent. My four-men tent was too big so I decided to purchase a smaller one. Hope I get to use it.
It was 7.30 am and the sky is brighter now. It was still chilly and ideal for my cycling. The tarmac was good and flat. I passed another foreign cyclist cycling the opposite direction towards Kuantan. He looks well prepared with a pair of nice black with grey flap Ortlieb pannier (I will die for one of those pannier). I only notice him after we had passed each other. We only wave at each other present and move on with our journey. What was I thinking! I could have turn around stop him and give him a treat before having him shared some of his travel tales with me. That would well worth the money and time. Idiot! I mumble to myself. Should he be reading this blog, please do get in touch with me. I would like to get to know him.
Border arch before entering the State of Terengganu.
Time fly when you are enjoying your ride. I passed an arch and enter into the state of Terengganu. My morning sunrise was not that spectacular so I didn’t bother to stop and take any photo. However the scenery gets interesting after passing the Terengganu state boundary. The road which runs parallel along the South China Sea provided some of the nicest view along the road as specially when crossing bridges. With high vintage point I could enjoy the beautiful fishing village with colorful boat nicely arrange along the jetty. Traffic turned a bit heavy as I entered Chukai town at 9.30am. Didn’t waste time there and I hit the paddle and move on.
View from bridge before Chukai Recreation shelter beside the river
The sun picks up as I rode towards some roll of stalls selling ‘Lemang’. ‘Lemang’ are glutinous rice mixed with coconut milk, place into a bamboo and cooked over a small fire. Once cooked, the bamboo will split open to review the glutinous rice. It’s then cut into cube and usually served with ‘rendang curry’ (Beef curry). The aroma is tempting even for a foreigner. Competition is tough as I could see many stalls trying very hard to outdo each other. ‘Lemang’ are usually very popular during the fasting month and Hari Raya. The site was also quite unique, with rolls and rolls of bamboo stacking up right to catch the heat without spilling it contains. Beside ‘lemang’ another delicacy is ‘Satar’. ‘Satar’ are a mixer of fish paste and coconut wrapped in banana leaves in a form of a triangle before skewer and barbeque over a slow fire. You can just open up banana leave and eat the filling. There are colorful jars of local fruits made into pickle in every stall. The ‘redang’ curry are usually place in round transparent sealed container and sold separately from the ‘lemang’.
There’re many varieties and cheap foods along way which you will have no problem if you are hungry. Feasting in Malaysia can be an adventure by itself if you are ‘food adventurist’
As much as I would like feast on the ‘Lemang’or ‘Satar’, it’s was too big of portion for me.
So I just took some shots and hit the paddle again to the disappointment of some of the stall owners.
Road side stalls selling ‘lemang’ Colorful jar of pickle and goodies
Nicely arranged ‘lemang’ cook over a slow fire. Pretty lady preparing ‘Satar’I’m on the roll now as my speed pick up average 20-25km (not because I’m strong but thanks to flat road). Making some good progress from the lost time on my earlier start. Heading toward Kertih, I stop for a brief rest and admired at one of the most scenic spot on my tour. As I approached the huts, I could also notice some interesting large ground lizard (not monitor lizard) running around before diving into their barrow. I don’t know what species it was but I recognized it, as it was sold as pets in some of the pet shop in Kuala Lumpur. The place was just picture perfect. There was a nice resting hut platform under a shady tree with a gentle breeze blowing from the sea. Small fishing boat anchor along the shore with crystal clear water. It was so comfortable and relaxing that I nearly fell asleep laying there.
Scenic spots along my ride to Kertih
Giant supermarket at Kertih.Kertih is a booming town. Thanks to the petroleum refinery situated there. A great contrast a few kilometers down the road. Here you even a have a big supermarket. Both side of the road are line up with grey color furnace pointing towards the sky. You could see some of them with ball of fire shooting up 30 to 40 feet high. It’s quite a spectacular site and imaging if you passed here during the night. It’s even better. The site lasted over a few kilometers and along the way you will notice signage telling not to take any picture. I wonder whether would I be arrested or my camera be confiscated if I did. If you are driving you would have no problem escaping. Riding on loaded bicycle would be a different story. Anyway the site was too nice to be missed without a few shoots. If I‘m arrested, I could just pretend to be a Japanese cyclist and don’t understand a word of English nor Malay. After a few shoots, I paddle as fast as possible to get away from here.
My loaded bike and a fierily furnace backdrop.
Entering Dungun with a merciless bright sun over my head together with a strong head wind, my progress is slow and torturing even if it was downhill. Up to now I had already cover at least 120 kilometers. Lucky I had change to my long sleeve shirt for today ride so most of my body is cover from the sun. There were road stalls selling ‘Air Nira’. It’s fermented palm juice with small among of alcohol from the fermentation process. The sugary cool drink sure feel great as is slowly flows into my body. It did boost up some Ooop! (Power) thanks to the sugary stuffs… or is it the alcohol? Hmm….I wonders. By 3.00pm I had passed Dungun and yet to stop for lunch. Stopping by the road stalls I just don’t have the appetite for any heavy meals, instead I gabble up 4 bananas and 3 glasses of water.
Booster juices. Fermented palm juice. My healthy lunch
It was quite encouraging noticing the signage beside the stalls indicating that Rantau Abang is just 12 km away. I could have gone further to Marang if I wanted to but Rantau Abang seem to be a more popular choice for its beautiful beach and fine white sand.
The endanger Leatherback turtle use to come ashore at Rantau Abang by the thousand during the sixty. This was one of the few shores in the world the Leatherback come to lay its eggs. Little conservation and enforcement have resulted in mash exploitation and abuse. From un-control eggs collection, tourism and human statement had force the declined on this species coming back to this shore. Now conservation effort are being done to help protect other species of turtle along the coaster shore before it come to the same faith. WWF are running an Eggs-Turtle campaign. For more detail information please log to
http://www.wwf.org.com/ or
http://www.projectorin.sg/ Everyone have a role to play to protect our heritage and one way is to support this conservation effort.
Encouraging signage to Rantau Abang
Even with a strong head wind the ride along the coast road was rewarding. I stopped at Kampung Kuala Abang, one of the scenic beaches to rest and enjoy the view. Managed to pass my camera to some locals to take a shots of me with my bicycle. The beautiful beach runs for miles and seem endless on either side. By now it’s 4.00pm and I had been on the road since 5.00am in the morning, on total of eleven hours and a distance of 151km. I’m rewriting my record. I was pleased and happy with my result. Off course I can’t compare to cyclist like Alastair Humphreys or Rob who cycled round the globe, mine is just peanut. They rode their loaded bicycle 200 MILES a day. MILESSSSSS! NOT KILOMETERS. My is peanut and theirs are NUTS!!! You can log on to their site at
http://www.alastairhumphreys.com/ &
http://www.cyclinghomefromsiberia.com/ and read all about their adventure. Rob had just published his book and also has a 6 episodes DVD on his tour.
Beautiful rock formation. 
Me & my bike at Kampung Kuala AbangLocating accommodation along Rantau Abang is not difficult but to get one that fits your budget take a bit of patient and time. I stopped at Dahimah’s Guest House to check out the rate. Looks okay but my only complaint was that it’s not at the beach front. When you have the upper hand you can be a bit choosy. I finally settled at Al Awang’s Beach Resorts and restaurant . They wanted to charge me RM$50 (with fan) but I manage to bargain down to RM$35. Reasoning with them I will leave early and it’s now already coming to 5pm. It’s a bit run down but just for a night and right in front of the beach I felt it’s a bargain. Wonderful!!!
The breeze was wonderful. Didn’t waste time after placing my bike and pannier inside the chalet I move for a dip in the sea together with my cycling attire of the day. Need to wash it anyway. They say salty water helped to removed dirt and it’s good for you skin. I hope so!!! I needed a dip for both of them.
Dahimah’s Guest House rates. Stayed at Al Awang’s in front of the beach.
Inside the chalet. View of chalet from the beach
Over exposed sandal foot. Me and the endless beach 
Death baby shark on the beach. Killer dish. Laying and lazing around on the beach over an hour to see the sky turn dark slowly sure feel good after a long ride. I have broken my cycling distance record. It’s stand now 154.9km in a day. That called for a celebration!!! Lets buy myself a good dinner. Order something nice! After a good clean up it is time for dinner. A bit disappointed with the Resort Restaurant as they only carter meals in group. The daytime eating stalls were closed and I got to walk over 1.5 km till I reached two small little stalls that are still operating. There were a Petronas gas station which also acts as a small provision shop. My favorite fried Kangkong chili belacan (Fried vegetable with chili and shrimp paste) had never failed to disappoint my appetite so far. But this time my choice of eatery had really tested my taste. My dinner was a disaster. My favorite Kangkong chili belacan turn out too freaking hot that I only took to spoon of it and wave the white flag. It’s not a dish, in fact I could easily use it as a secret weapon to kill any unsuspected western tourist with it. The cook was kind enough not to charge me and I decided to replace with another dish. “Sayur masak Daging” (Vegetable with beef meat) was my replacement. The second dish was neither good. The meat used was so tough and rubbery that I can’t even bite half while chewing it. I believe the tiger can die of indigestion if it shallow this meat. All I could do was chew and suck the juice out of it before spitting out the meat. Now I know why I was the only customer sitting in the stalls. I should have tried the eating at the stall next to the Police Station. On the way back I notice there were many customers having their meals there. No to deter from my celebrating mood, I bought myself two sinful favorite. Yes! Potato Chip and Cashewnuts at the Petronas Gas Station. At least I enjoyed nice snacks looking up at the stars and enjoying the breeze sitting all alone at the dark beach. Time fly and it’s time to go to bed.
Petronas gas station . Sinful favorite
http://www.awangs.com/ web site and signage.I finally got to use my new tent, but for a wrong reason. The mosquito where like ‘KAMIKASI’ diving at all angle and sucking the juice out of me. Thinking I was being smart I used the tent as a mosquito net but even with the fan turning at full, it’s was still too hot inside. I finally walk over to the Petronas at 12am to buy some mosquito coil and the rest was history. ZZZzzzzzz!!!!!!!!
Tent on the bed? Why? Find out. New record distance in a day-154.89 km
